null
Advanced Search

Watch and Chatelaine

Not on view

Watch and Chatelaine

Artist: John Gottlieb Müller (Vienna, Austria)

Date: 1875-1900
Medium: Silver gilt, rock crystal, enamel
Dimensions:
Watch: 44.5 x 31.8 x 31.8 mm
Chatelaine: 133.4 mm
Markings: Movement: "Joh. Gottlieb Müller in Wien, No. 612" Pendant ring : maker's marks
Credit Line: Proctor Collection, Thomas R. Proctor Watch Collection
Object number: PC. 392
Label Text
Although made near the end of the nineteenth century, this watch chatelaine resembles examples from the eighteenth century. Three chains hang from a waist plaque; the longer chain holds a watch and the shorter side chains attach to a key and a fob seal. The polychrome enameling is executed in tones of white and red, the same palette used on Renaissance jewelry.

Text Entries

Although made near the end of the nineteenth century, this watch chatelaine is designed much like examples from the eighteenth century. Three chains hang from a waist plaque; the longer, center chain holds a watch, and one shorter side chain is attached to a key, the other to a fob seal. The polychrome enameling is executed in the same palette as Renaissance jewelry, tones of white and red. The Renaissance-inspired jewelry made by Carlo Guiliano (ca. 1831-95) in London at the time displayed similar colors, with rubies providing the red hue.(1)

The waist plaque on this watch chatelaine is decorated with a painted enamel scene of three Roman soldiers, one with his left hand raised and a sword in his right as if alerting the other two. The watch is suspended from a swivel attached to a transparent rock crystal sphere made up of two hinged half-spheres held by enameled metal borders decorated with white flowers and buildings. The center of the dial is enameled with blue, red, and mauve flowers with green leaves. The movement is visible on the under-side of the sphere.

1. Geoffrey Munn, Castellani and Giuliano: Revivalist Jewellers of the 19th Century (New York: Rizzoli, 1984), p. 34, pl. 28.